I was back in the UK recently for my sister’s very long-delayed wedding celebrations[1], so I tacked a few days of holiday on to the relevant weekend and went to visit some friends. I spent one day in Bristol with my university friend, Charlie, who has appeared in these pages before, where we had a bit of a rambling day trip around some nearby sights.
We started off with a quick visit to Malmesbury, which is a very picture-postcard Wiltshire town. We wandered around a bit and went into the abbey, which, unexpectedly, was playing host to a load of screaming kiddies, as part of a community event. So, the usual abbatial calm was not terribly in evidence. The current building, the parish church, is a small remnant of the medieval abbey that was far grander, but, you know, the Reformation and all that. There was a good model of what the medieval abbey would have looked like inside the church, though, and we also looked briefly round the ruins of the cloisters to get some sense of what was going on. Otherwise, we walked around a bit and just enjoyed the nice weather and the architecture. Unfortunately, we were visiting on a Monday, so the Athelstan Museum, the town’s other major attraction from our point of view, was shut. Charlie assures me it’s worth a visit, though[2].
After that, we carried on eastwards down the M4 and took a trip to STEAM [sic], the museum of the Great Western Railway, on the outskirts of Swindon. Now, Charlie is a big fan of trains – he’s an engineer whose work is concerned with steam pipes, after all – and I’m a moderate fan, but I was slightly apprehensive that, if it was just a big shed full of trains, I might get a little bored. Happily, this did not occur. Whilst STEAM is indeed a big shed[3], and contains several trains, it also has lots of exhibits about life on the railways, the development of the system, and all the behind-the-scenes stuff necessary to build and run trains. Which I mostly found more interesting than the trains themselves, though getting the opportunity to get up close to locomotives is always worthwhile. There is, unsurprisingly, an awful lot of miscellaneous railway memorabilia that really adds to the insight the exhibition cases and information panels give you. The information panels are also very well-pitched: just the right level of information so you feel you’re learning something, without making you feel as if you’re in a state of information overload. Overall, I very much enjoyed the visit and thought it was worth the tenner to get in.
We lunched late nearby and pondered what to do with our afternoon. We did consider going in to Swindon itself, but decided it wasn’t really worth it, and instead went to Lydiard Park, a large estate and house on the outskirts of Swindon, owned now by the local council, just to see what was there. After some fun with cash-only parking meters, we spent some time wandering round what turned out to be a pleasant little park. Annoyingly, we couldn’t get in to the church, and the main view was spoiled by an industrial estate, but the grounds are nice, with some easy walks and play areas for children[4]. The house itself is a conference centre, so there’s nothing to see there. Nothing of major note, I suppose, but it’s a nice place if you just want to get out for an hour.
After this, we turned around and headed back towards Bristol, but decided to stop off in Castle Combe, possibly the prettiest village in England. At least, the village claims to be so, based on an award it won in the 60s, and it certainly ends up featuring in a lot of films and TV shows as a chocolate-box period backdrop. And it’s fair to say that it is very nice. It’s very small – one street, pretty much – but the architecture is lovely. You can get a sense of the place by the fact that nearly every house is ‘The Old’ something or other. Many of the services adumbrated by the house names are now gone, and the village preserved as a tourist magnet. So it’s very nice to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there[5]. The church is pretty, though, and there’s a good little potted history of the town inside – much like Malmesbury, it used to be a lot more important, based mostly on the medieval wool industry.
And that pretty much sums up our day trip around the Bristol area. I had a fun day out, and I think I’d have to say STEAM was the highlight for me. It really was a very well thought-out museum.
[1] Which were fun. It helped that it was unseasonably warm and sunny, but I think it would have been enjoyable even if it had been chucking it down.
[2] It is perhaps worth recording here that, a bit like Winchester, Malmesbury was historically a lot more important than it is now, and was one of Alfred the Great’s burhs, hence its rather unexpected claim to fame as the burial place of Athelstan, Alfred’s grandson and the first person to really be able to claim to be King of England (a claim he very much made).
[3] On the site of GWR’s former headquarters – Swindon was the company’s centre of operations for 150 years.
[4] It was notable that we were pretty much the only people without children and/or a dog.
[5] Not least because I imagine the houses all cost a bazillion pounds.